JEANS

It might be hard to imagine a more quintessential piece to a wardrobe than a good pair of jeans. We
specialize in raw selvage (selvedge) jeans from Swedish brands like Indigofera Jeans, but also international brands like Freenote Cloth, Blue Blanket, Lee 101, Tellason, Levi’s Vintage, Hen’s Teeth, and many more. We believe in denim as a fabric and an institution, it is a timeless material
suitable for any occasion and lifestyle. With our selection we like to offer something for everyone,
there’s a range of styles, cuts, and fits, ensuring that we can find the right jeans for you, jeans that you
will want to wear day in and out.

New to Denim? Not a problem, don’t let the buzz words intimidate you. Here is a list of terms and
definitions to help you navigate the world of denim.

Selvedge

“The words ‘selvedge denim’ relate to the ‘self-edge’ of fabric.
In terms of denim jeans, the selvedge is used in the jean construction, specifically along the seam that
runs down the outside of the jean (from waistband to hem). Selvedge denim is woven using old-
fashioned denim-weaving techniques; most authentically woven on old looms. See finished selvedge
jeans. Selvedge looms were popular in denim weaving until the mid-to-late 1900’s. US denim mills began
modernizing their machinery to speed production as demand for denim grew world-wide. For these
mills, that were focused more and more on increasing output, the use of old selvedge looms became
unwanted, making the looms obsolete due to their slower and less consistent production. However,
today, selvedge has become more desirable than non-selvedge for two reasons: the nuance of the
denim weaving technique itself and the commitment to quality from the mills producing selvedge
denim. Japanese mills are the unquestionable leaders in selvedge production, nowadays.
Selvedge tends to have a tighter, denser weave than non-selvedge. The higher density gives the denim a
sturdier hand. The use of the older selvedge loom technology also creates variations on the denim
surface (due to inconsistencies in the weaving process) compared to denim woven on modern looms.
These variations make the denim visually unique and highly desirable.
Denim mills that have committed to the production of selvedge understand and value the nuance and
history of denim. With their advanced knowledge comes a desire, as well as a self-imposed responsibility
to make a superior product. For these mills, yarn quality, dyeing techniques, quality control, design and
innovation take heightened priority as compared to mills focused on commodity, high-volume

production. The result is an undeniable increase of the overall quality of selvedge.” – Todd Shelton
(toddshelton.com)
Selvedge denim is special because it is rare and expensive, because it cannot be mass-produced, and
because each yard of denim is a unique piece of wearable art. Just flip up the cuff of your jeans or look
inside the coin-pocket to see the neat white & blue “self-finished edge” (hence the term selvedge),
which is the “proof” that this denim is made on a shuttle loom and not a new mass-production loom.

Raw Denim

Raw denim is the term for denim fabric that is unwashed and untreated. Raw denim (aka
dry denim) is simply denim fabric that remains unwashed, untreated, and virtually untouched from
when it rolls off the loom to when it is sold to you. It’s denim in its purest form. Raw denim usually has a
crispy and stiff feel and easily leaves traces of its indigo dye behind when it rubs against another
surface–even your hands (this phenomenon is called crocking). Be careful what you rub up against when
wearing a new pair of raw denim jeans, you might leave a bit of blue behind. One of the biggest benefits
of raw denim, and the indigo loss, is that they develop and age based on what you do in them and to
them. Every mile you walk, every scrape on the concrete, every item you keep regularly in your pocket
leaves its mark. The dark indigo dye slowly begins to chip away revealing the light electric blue and
eventually the white cotton core of the denim yarns the more you wear them. What’s left is a wholly
unique garment that was formed and faded to you and you alone. (heddels.com)

Sanforization

is a process of pre-shrinking fabric before it is made into a garment. When a fabric has
been treated with the sanforization process, it’s referred to as ‘sanforized’ or ‘pre-shrunk.’ If denim
is not sanforized, it’s referred to as ‘unsanforized’ or ‘shrink-to-fit.’ But few jeans are truly unsanforized
(even Levi’s shrink-to-fits are sanforized a little bit).
Sanforization solves a fundamental problem of unfinished denim: it eliminates shrinkage. It makes
buying a right-sized pair of jeans a whole lot easier. Sanforized denim shrinks about 2-3% (although it
can be more) while unsanforized denim shrinks as much as 10%. The shrinkage is more noticeable in the
legs, which are relatively longer than for instance the waist. Many denimheads prefer unsanforized
denim because of how it looks and fits. The beauty of unsanforized jeans is that they mould to your
body in a way sanforized jeans simply won’t. What you get is a truly personalised fit. Some also enjoy
the ritualised process of shrinking their jeans themselves.