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The Merchant is based on a style which was called black chief and was made without a toe-box. The black chief came with a plain toe and was raw cut at the quarter edge. The Red Wing 8044 Merchant Oxford has a Chemi Gum outsole gives the shoe for good grip and outstanding comfort. The Red Wing Shoes 8044 is made of Red Wing Ebony Harness leather which has a beautiful, scraped look. The Ebony Harness has a vintage-like appearance due to the amount of oil that was used during production.The Red Wing 8044 Merchant Oxford comes with brown waxed flat laces.